Boarding Pass* 在路上

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After crossing the Yellow River bridge, you get to Shaanxi province. There isn't much water in the river, and I can't tell if the water is really yellow.

Arriving at my hometown around early evening.

Heading out to one of the most important mountain ranges in China two days later. My hometown lies at the foot of Qinling Mountains (also called Tsinling Mountains), which divide the country into the South and the North, similar to the Mason-Dixon Line.

This division is foremost a geographic one. The South is humid, while with the Mountains blocking much of the warm wind from the ocean, making the North dry and cold. There are also cultural and dietary differences. The Southern people are mild-tempered. Their Northern counterparts are more wild like the Texans. The main grain for the South is rice, while the North likes wheat-made noodles.

The countryside is beautiful. Like everywhere else in China, no land is spared for food production.

Wild flowers on the roadside.

Driving into the Qinling Mountains. Its peak, Taibai Mountain, is 3,767 meters. It is just an one-hour drive to the foot of Taibai Mountain from my hometown. But the steep mountains led us quickly ascended to over 2,000 meters. My ears kept popping like pop corns.

Stopped for a picnic next to the river.

A small waterfall, possibly man-made.

The road is generally exciting like this one.

Driving up, and up…

Didn't make it to the cable station, where people are transported to the peak for a view from the top. But it was enough to get a taste of Qinling Mountains. Even though it was a hot day, it felt cool and refreshing inside. The water was ice-cold too.

Heading back to Beijing after three more days. Stopped in Shanxi province again, but this time in Taiyuan Jinci Temple, a place about 25km southwest of Shanxi's capital, Taiyuan.

Jinci Temple was first built around 560 A.D. to commemorate the first lord who founded the country Jin (today's Shanxi province). But most of the existing buildings were built later. Jinci Hotel is convenient located right next to the temple in a secluded garden area.

The well-groomed gardens look old and may be part of the original Jinci gardens. You can walk to Jinci Temple from the garden backdoor, and it feels like the whole landscape once belonged together.

Many of the buildings in Jinci Temple look old and in desperate need of repair.

The most famous building is the Holy Mother Palace (below), which is over 1,000 years old. Though much younger than ruins like the Colosseum, it is still a miracle for a wood structure to be preserved for such a long time. Can you imagine how hard it is to not have a fire for a thousand years?

Many emperors have visited over the centuries and have left their signatures – in the form of a framed calligraphy artwork. When the New China founders visited, they didn't write one (I think). Their gift to this ancient temple was a change of its name. They took out the word "King" from the name. Their reasoning was that there would no longer be any kings or lords in China's new era.

The thing wrapped around the pillars are wooden sculptures of dragon.

With the number of tourists there, possibly more people have seen the temples nowadays than any other time. But few know what was the building for, or what did people do in it? It stands sadly, as an empty shell.

The temples are old, but are much younger than this cypress. It was planted over 3,000 years ago and is still going strong.

This one is also 3,000 years old.

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The massive investment in infrastructure caused an interesting phenomenon in China. Some of the freshly-minted highways look great, but there are no cars on it! The drive between Beijing and my hometown is around 15 hours. The road looked like below during two-thirds of the time: e-m-p-t-y..

I was hoping the drive out of Beijing would be like escaping a sandstorm. Somewhere one or two hours away, there should be blue sky, right? No, the grayish smog continued for the day. But the sunset was still beautiful.

Eight hours of drive southwest of Beijing is the ancient city of Pingyao. The whole city, with some quarters as old as over six hundred years, is well-preserved together with its 630-year-old city walls — truly a rarity.

Many old family courtyards were converted to hotels. This one, called Tianyuankui Hotel, has a huge hidden backyard leading to hotel rooms. Below, a corner of the hotel.

Next morning, the place looked different in daylight. The official color of Shanxi province, where Pingyao is located, is unquestionably black. Not only is Shanxi famous for the coal it produces, many buildings there are either black or gray. The red lanterns are therefore essential, to lighten up the living space.

The main street in Pingyao. It must be a charming place five hundred years ago.

Most of the people still live there the old-fashioned way.

The city walls are 6km-long and were built 630 years ago. It survived time, wars and sieges. There are still cannon holes on some parts of the wall.

How Pingyao was so well-preserved is still a mystery to me. Other places were not as lucky. An old family courtyard (a castle, really) about a-hour drive was partially destroyed during the Culture Revolution. Called Wangjia Dayuan, the courtyard was rebuilt several decades ago.

The compound has over 1,000 rooms and provided residence to the Wang family members. The doors and hallways were designed for different people (the masters, the maids, the old and the young) to use in a certain way.

Architecturally, the huge compound has order but is never boring. There are different styles of courtyards, gardens and layouts that provide varieties matching the status of the people living there.

The Wang family became wealthy by being great businessmen. In old China, businessmen were the least respected people. Even peasants looked down on them.

Naturally, the family tried to branch into government, the most respected profession. Though it was successful, the family never lost its tradition of frugality and modesty. There is no mistake that this is a place of a wealthy landlord – not of a noble family, nor a cultured one.

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The last time I was home during the summer was in 2006. Very excited to be back in a different season from the usual winter/Christmas excursions. But I would soon wish it's winter. Beijing is hot~

This picture was taken in April at Central Park.

Thirty years of commercialization transformed Beijing from an ancient capital to a forest of glass and steel. But the most important change is not what Beijing has built, but what it has lost. Namely, its blue sky. Its centuries-old courtyards and its cultural heritage.

At the center is the infamous CCTV (China Central Television Station) building. Nicknamed "the Giant Panties," the structure is an example of Beijing's architectural experimentalism at its worst. Its oddity defies words.

Stuck in Beijing traffic. A random thought: on the plane back, I saw an interesting headline on the Chinese newspaper my neighbor was reading: Communist Party Members Must Not Interfere With the Judicial Process. Right, that is news?

But not all experiments are disasters. Beijing's new airport is a successful blend of the modern and the traditional. Its dragon shape and large red pillars are distinctively Chinese.

On the airport shuttle train between terminals.

Recently, there seems to be a more pronounced realization that Beijing is quickly losing its identity. With the exception of the Tiananmen Square (okay, maybe the new airport too), there is almost nowhere else in the city that reminds people that they are in China.

Things Chinese are "in" again. The Ritz Carlton on financial street is a new hotel in Western Beijing that is everything Chinese. Its lounge has a neat display of calligraphy brushes.

The elevator door has a Chinese design.

Inside the elevator.

There is a renaissance of classic-styled Chinese restaurants. We went to one restaurant called Kong Yi Ji around Chaoyang Park. Near the door, a display of old pails.

The entrance

A traditional musical instrument called Gu Zheng is played during dinner.

At the left is a place where tea is prepared. There are semi-private rooms with bamboo window blinds.

Menu comes with pictures, including this roast duck, posing perfectly.

Jugs for wine.

Even the bathroom is complete with antiques.

The bathroom

Food here is of the Southern style…simply delicious.

Next, we went to a Cuban restaurant and bar. The wooden door seems to be recovered from an old house.

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After my last real vacation to Italy in December 2007, you can imagine — after two and half years of neck-breaking toil — how wonderful it is to be on holiday again.

Having been to Cancun in December 2006, going back is easy. A holiday package is booked, and in no time Jet Blue unloads me into the signature turquoise waters of Cancun. My goal: not to get a tan.

The hotel is Marriott CasaMagna Resort, but these pictures are from the more picturesque JW Marriott next door. It is the low season and the pools are almost deserted. For four days, I did not dipping even my toes into the water.

It was full moon for two days, and the silver moonlight on the ocean was divine, though impossible to capture with a camera.

There are several restaurants on the bay side from the hotel. El Shrimp Bucket has great food. Below: virgin mango margarita. It tastes just like mango lassi in India.

This is my favorite dish: raw tuna tostada. It has a slightly sweet sauce, which mixes well with the tuna and avocado.

Shrimp taco is essentially a shrimp salad on top of tortilla

Fish taco on soft tortilla, which I like better than the crispy version.

Grilled shrimp… a disappointment.

La Destileria is a Mexican restaurant across from the Kukulcan Mall. The restaurant has a terrace overlooking the bay and yummy Mexican food.

Pad Thai from Sasi Thai restaurant at the Marriott CasaMagna. If you are used to authentic Thai food, stick to Mexican food while in Cancun.

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走在九寨沟里,深深的吸一口气,肺好像到了天堂。心想如果把这空气,这样蓝的天,这样白的云,放到北京和上海,那会是什么感觉?

是的,人们已经富有了,大楼已经比纽约更现代了,餐厅已经奢华至极。可生活最基本的东西 - 呼吸,却倒退至世界末尾。即使大家都汽车洋房了,看着永远灰着的天,吸着刺鼻的黄沙空气,你会幸福吗?

九寨沟至成都飞行40分钟。从机场往外望,是一片黄霰霰的雾,马路对面的标牌已经无法看清楚。其实,一个城市的污染只需较短的时间。至少我小时候,还记得自己城市的天是蓝的,云是白的。而且污染只集中在城市。开车出城两个小时,就又能看见天空了。

但据说污染治理起来比当初弄脏要难的多,需要的时间长的多。不可靠的说法,加洲污染治理用了大约十几二十年。当然,还大家一个蓝天还没有成为人们与政府的重要话题。也许,三四十年后的中国城市能够重现蓝天?

“然而夜气很清爽,真所谓“沁人心脾”,我在北京遇着这样的好空气,仿佛这是第一遭了。” - 鲁迅《社戏I》

在杭州萧山酒店附近的背山面水豪宅。房子很大,但间距挺小。据说都在千万以上。

湖里的黑白天鹅。这湖好像就叫天鹅湖。

第一次去杭州的河坊街。在这里发现了许多儿时记忆里的好东西。先看到这个传统的老中药铺子。门面两人高的墨字树在粉白墙上,跨过高高的木门槛,是阴冷冷的店堂,两边满墙的小抽屉,上面写着许多奇怪的名字。

上学时鲁迅一段描写买药的文字印象深刻。是《呐喊》自序,又找了来,却原来只有这么一段:

“我有四年多,曾经常常,——几乎是每天,出入于质铺和药店里,年纪可是忘却了,总之是药店的柜台正和我一样高,质铺的是比我高一倍,我从一倍高的柜台外送 上衣服或首饰去,在侮蔑里接了钱,再到一样高的柜台上给我久病的父亲去买药。回家之后,又须忙别的事了,因为开方的医生是最有名的,以此所用的药引也奇 特:冬天的芦根,经霜三年的甘蔗,蟋蟀要原对的,结子的平地木,……多不是容易办到的东西。”

还有老北京风味茶馆,喜欢的是里面的木屋顶,木桌子,木条凳。看起来很古老也很原汁原味,使我想起黑白老照片。这样式真的和清末相仿,不同的是,照片里的人又黑又瘦,一只脚搭在凳子上,脸上一副对摄影师疑惑的神态。

“弹棉花嘞!”这手艺真是有年头没见了。

小时候,一年几次会看到两个全身糊满白棉絮的人出现在院子里,奋力的弹一把弓一样的东西,把那积满灰尘的死棉被重新变得又白又软。

“锃--锃--”那声音听久了就成为噪音,也许还烦过那些占了我们跳沙包地盘的人。可现在重逢,却是两眼泪汪汪。

另,还见到卖传统香包的。怀疑的拿起闻了闻,又一扇记忆的大门被打开。闭眼沉醉了半天,然后对惊异的售货员说:“这味道我已经二十年没闻到了。”

走在河坊街,如同走在我童年记忆的小路上。一种生活离我们远去,也许它并不美丽,却依然让我们恍若隔世。

说点大事吧:美食从来是我一直期待的。这次外出吃的次数不多。先来条豆豉鱼。

西湖醋鱼

绍兴醉鱼

酸菜鱼。这次怎么全跟鱼干上了?

来个鸡吧,经典辣子鸡。

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九寨沟的灵在其水,其水之灵又在其色彩。一眼望去,那一池池的水在阳光下泛着不真实的光。那水又是通透见底,深达15米都能看到底部的一草一石。

这水应当发自于岷江源头(相应的,这些山属于岷山山脉),从沟口出来后能看到其一直流到酒店,后汇合于岷江,及至嘉陵江。

这里一直以来有九个藏族村寨居住。现在有的搬迁出去,只剩下三个村寨,而且都变成旅行景点。那些藏民看起来都变成了商人,生活条件不错。不知道他们是否也会觉得失去了些什么。我试着和一个开店的奶奶聊天,但她似乎只对我是否买东西感兴趣,便放弃打扰她了。

这个水池的水,蓝的诡秘,仿佛属于另一个世界。

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虽然九寨沟的灵在水,但每次看到白雪皑皑的山峰总是让人激动 --除了在飞机上。从上海飞九寨沟,降落前的20分钟很惊险。四周全是雪山,仿佛飞机一转身,机翼就能碰到山峰。在出租车上向司机感叹,这机场是世界上最危险的吧。被他笑话胆小,并被告知康定和拉萨的机场才真危险,因为滑道短的缘故。

还是喜欢脚踏平地的仰望雪山。人可以俯瞰雪山,但永远不能俯视它们。

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不同于其它景区,九寨沟这一路行来,不但没有什么不适之处,反而有许多细节让人敬佩。套用官方语言,九寨沟风景区真的是达到了“国际一流”水准。

第一,景区内全程禁烟。除了休息点有固定的吸烟区外,所有方圆140多公里的景区全部不准吸烟。其效果是超出想像的。不但中巴车里没有烟味(上海的出租车大部分烟味熏死人,还有餐厅,酒店,邮局和其它公共场所全部烟味浓烈),走在公路边,饯道上,丛林中,充满鼻孔的是森林的香味和瀑布的水雾。当然,有规定就有人打破它。路上有闻到烟味。

第二,交通安排合理。连接各个景点的中巴车达到欧三排放标准。有些网站介绍说这些中巴是电力车,其实是错误的。它们应当是混合动力车。来九寨沟之前想像可以自己徒步行走,但九寨沟是无法“走”下来的。整个行程有80公里。我走走停停了三个多小时就累的不行(也因为是高原,身体还不适应),幸亏有这些中巴车,才得以休息调整,顺带偷懒。

第三,温柔的饯道。九寨沟是以水为胜的,群山只是衬托。九寨沟的风景又是精致的,不似长城的豪迈或戈壁的粗矿。因此,长达数千米的纯木结构饯道,蜿蜒在林木后,溪流间,成为了九寨沟特有的徒步路径。大部分时间人们行走在这饯道上,常常会碰到下图的情况:几棵树从饯道中间拔地而出。原来工人们在修建饯道的时候,没有砍掉阻挡在道路中间的小树,而是多花了许多功夫,在饯道中间做了几个洞,以保留树木。在中国,有多少人还没有这几棵树那么幸运?

第四,公路护栏:披着树皮的钢筋。可以想像如果这些护栏是涂成红白相间的颜色吗?虽然很小的细节,但其用心做事的态度仍让人感动。

第五,世界上最干净的野外卫生间。这个可爱的木屋原来是卫生间。一拉开门,就听见一声惊呼:从来没见过这么干净的野外方便之处(真实情况比照片要干净的多)。后来发现景区内其它简易卫生间没有这个干净,但整体而言,卫生程度实为罕见。

刚开始做旅行计划的时候在网上找不到喜来登的图片,所以顺带帖两张图。毕竟是在高原,不能和亚龙湾的喜来登比,休闲餐厅等设施很一般(泳池健身房都很小,桑拿另外收费,没有蒸汽房,而且大堂和餐厅暖气不足,吃早饭时那个冷啊),应该不能算是度假酒店。

幸运的是没有订天堂酒店,要不然就被仍在前不着村,后不着店的半山腰了,连个买矿泉水瓜子的小卖部都没有。一出门就得打车,到九寨沟沟口要50元。喜来登离沟口步行约20分钟,并且周围有许多餐厅。

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今年的圣诞夜会在杭州吧。在罗马是两年前。最近对于religion有了点新认识,想重新看看那次意大利之行,或许会有新发现。

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Basilica of Saint Peter,几十位前任教皇的藏身处,包括基督12门徒之一的Peter,并因之得名。随便找了一张图,想看看自己是否知识丰富到可以辨认这些油画背后的故事。No。这张看起来像是苏格拉底被赐死(酒杯,大胡子),但没理由出现在这儿。或者是另一个殉道者?

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这张图同样看不出门道。

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转战古罗马遗迹。即使只留下了残苑断壁,仍能想像的出当日的辉煌。如果客观的看,似乎中国的遗迹没有罗马的宏伟和叹为观止。像这样两千年前的还站立着的建筑遗迹在中国似乎少之又少。为什么在这里诞生的文明与中华文明截然相反?这里的人从一开始就跟人体干上了劲。他们喜欢光着,喜欢研究肌肉群,喜欢比真实的人更大更完美的人体雕塑。他们从中发现了美,力量,竞争,又由之衍生了道德,哲学和公民意识。

而在黄河流域,人们极力掩盖和忽略肉体,或者个体。对他们来讲,个体理应只是集体的一个点。个人的躯体和意志似乎很少成为辩论的焦点。我看过的中国最古老的东西是公元前六七百年的青铜器。从那精细的花纹,一般而言合适的尺寸来看,那是一群不喜欢张扬的人们。他们也许很早就意识到了节制的美德。

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当新的东西建起来后,人们就开始怀念老的。

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平安夜,朝向圣彼得教堂走去。

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祈祝平安。祈祝能早日回到意大利。

另外一张有意思的图:

xin_3809021615271251883238 copy

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A two-and-half-hours flight and a world apart. Saturday morning as the loooong Labor Day weekend was beginning, I left the beautiful New York late summer day — the crystal golden sun light, mild temperature and cool breeze — for the Bahamas. These two years may be the years I traveled the least. As the car went on the highway to JFK, the memory of my last journey on this same road came back to me. December, I was leaving for a holiday in China, and it started to snow like crazy. Oh…the same building, same street.

Check out this Mexican jumping beans. I got to know them by watching a movie…the beans jumped to someone's glass in the movie. But in reality, they don't jump – they just try really hard.

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There were no taxis at the Nassau airport. So I asked a guy about where to get a taxis. He said I will take you. Two minutes later, this white stretched limousine pulled up. I gladly obliged. Note the leopard carpet and champagne glasses….all high-class.

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The Sivananda Ashram is on Paradise Island, a five minute boat ride from the main Nassau island. The place is pretty isolated and with lots of tropical plants. As it is the low season, there are only a dozen people around. In the winter, I was told guests can sometimes go up to two hundreds. But it does not get lonely. There are all kinds of animals to keep you company and the daily schedule of meditation and yoga cleanses the anxious heart.

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Deck right next to the beach for yoga classes. The water is much more beautiful than in this dull picture. This is really not too far from Paradise.

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Beautiful sunset after a cooling storm. Again, the stuff itself is a thousand time more stunning than the picture. See video below:

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I also saw the most serene moon light on the beach one night. The beauty of the nature is divine. As to the Yoga retreat and what it did to my spirit/heart/mind,  I will write about it later.

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