March 2006

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Most people are familiar with Shanghai's past during the 1930-1940s; but few know what this great city looked like in the late 1970s, shortly after the opening up. Here are some pictures that bring us back to that particular spring…(see original post here)

Pic 1: a busy pedestrian street; people were still wearing the "uniform" white shirts, but you can see some red skirts already. Note: all heads were black; no one dye their hair yet!

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Pic 2: The Bund. Only a few buses run on the empty street; the century old colonial buildings were torn and beat. But street was dug up for construction and there was a new building in distance.

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Pic 3: Around People's Square – the city center. People lined up to get on buses – a scene once gone but is slowly coming back now.

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Pic 4: Birdview of Pu Xi. The ocean of red roof houses without the skycrappers that take up the sky today. 

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Pic 5: I'm guessing this is Pu Dong, on the Huangpu River bank. There was no paved road nor any decent buildings.

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Pic 6: Thriving consumerism.  

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Pic 7: This look like the crossroad of Nanjing Road and Changde Road. You can see clearly here that no one follow the traffic rules.

shanghai 3.jpg Pic 8: an ordinary corner on which probably stands expensive property todayshanghai1.jpg

硬卧的上铺,一晚上睡得并不安稳,不时的醒过来,在半清醒半梦幻的中间,紧闭的双眼外是一闪一闪的亮灯光。到早上快到站的时候才睡得香甜起来,可又要下车了。于是磕磕绊绊的踩着三层床下来,揉着迷糊的睡眼,一脚踏进上海的天地。

三个月了,我的爱人,你一点还没有变。顺着人流出站,在地道里就有通向地铁的入口:上海,到底是上海!到窗口买了地铁卡,在进口栏杆处一刷,轻轻用膝盖压过三角杆,下面就是地铁的平台。想想昨天还在北京给检票阿姨纸票子,长征似的从2号线换13号线;啊,上海!

人民广场站换2号线,静安寺下来,楼梯两侧各有滚梯上去。地铁平台上有一溜亮晶晶的商品柜台,整齐的摆放着小糕点,各式腌的杨梅,杏和可爱小饰物。北京路出口上滚梯,渐渐的,阳光射下来,暖和的风吹着头发,女人迎面迈着急促的小步子,干枯的树丫上是暖和的金黄色天光,被城市里的电车线胡乱的分割着;更多的女人走来,有的多看了我一眼:想必是因为我白色球鞋和职业黑大衣的错位搭配吧。

沿着熟悉的街道,向家的方向走去。过了红绿灯,是一个弄堂口,里面一个女人在缝纫机上俯首工作,小纸牌子上写着“缝裤边”,她边做着伙计,边和在一边小板凳上晒太阳的阿婆聊着天,拖长调子的上海话;沿着一米宽的小街道向前,路过几家服装店,一个配钥匙的阿叔在坐在机器后面,狭促的空间更使得他融入周围的系列;花店的主人在路上摆起了摊子,湿水流的满地,上面凌乱的撒着黄色的菊花碎瓣;一只白色小狗从店里跑出来,向在板凳上的主人奔去,旁边的一位说了些什么;然后是那家麻辣烫店,锅子在路边的玻璃窗里沸腾着,那香味熟悉极了;然后是小区门口的保安,懒懒的站着,在胸前揣着两手,和另外一个人搭着话。

我爱把生活写在外面的上海。在这里,一个女人应该穿有跟的鞋子,修着精致的眉毛,衣服口大到刚刚露出锁骨;你应该在集市上买回新鲜的蔬菜,和邻居的阿婆探讨今天的菠菜是多少钱一斤;你总是和女朋友流连于长乐路和陕西路的小店,在遇到大减价的时候可以暂时忘记做个淑女;你致力于将从朋友那听到的某某幸运女孩子的故事发扬光大,并且永远对下一个男人充满希望。在这里,生活是小滋小味的大事情。

朝南的窗户里撒下大把的阳光,外面是一片蘑菇似的楼海。简单的收拾一下自己就出去吃中饭。坐在露台上,木桌子和长条的木椅,刺眼的阳光逼着我戴上墨镜,一下子使人有度假的兴奋。上海的空气都是亮晶晶的。记得去年12月从昏热的曼谷回来,也是坐磁悬浮,然后换地铁,也是从静安寺站出来,一上楼梯,就被上海空气冷冷的澄净惊呆了,仿佛空气是一块大水晶,一碰就要碎掉的。

饭饱之后就开始了我的上海之旅大扫荡。从陕西路南京路的路口一直向南逛,直到淮海路,然后去了人民路淮海路,我过去的住地。炸臭豆腐的,买一根根香蕉的水果摊子,拉面馆,还有糖炒栗子都还在。这里是我曾经拍过的黑色石库门,晾衣服架子和自行车影子的地方,残留着过往的气息。

然后去吃晚饭,车子在高架上爬升,两边是一座座熟悉高楼的身影。从早上看到上海的第一眼,到现在一一看到过去熟悉的每一个细节,我仿佛慢慢的从记忆的冷冻中苏醒过来 是的,这是我的城市。

第二天,下了雾雨,整个世界都是湿漉漉的 这才更像上海.